Bouillabaisse - Provençal Fish Stew

This is a robust, highly seasoned dish relying for its success on a mixture of different types of fish, all of them non-oily, half of them firm-fleshed, and half of them delicate. Shellfish may be added but are not essential. Also necessary are a good olive oil, and above all, saffron. Some of the fish traditionally used in Marseilles, home of the bouillabaisse, are not available outside Provence, but there are acceptable substitutes.

The delicate, non-oily fish such as lemon sole, red mullet, John Dory, or brill should each weigh less than 1 1b. Use them whole if they are small or halved if they are larger. For the firm-fleshed, non-oily fish, use fish such as monkfish, sea bass, sea bream, halibut, cod or conger eel, thickly sliced except the eel which should be cut into 1 1/2-inch slices. Ask your fish- monger to clean and prepare the fish.

For the fish stock
1 lb g fish heads, trimmings and carcasses
1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
6 parsley stalks
branch of fresh fennel, or ½ tsp fennel seeds
green part of leeks used in the bouillabaisse
1 x 2-inch strip of dried orange peel
1 sprig of thyme
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
5 pints litres water

For the bouillabaisse
1 lb leeks
¾ cup olive oil
1 large or 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 1b tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 tsp saffron threads
1 x 1-inch piece of dried orange peel
1 teaspoon dried mixed herbs
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 fl oz (½ cup) Pastis
3 lbs delicate, non-oily fish
2 lbs firm-fleshed, non-oily fish
12 large prawns (shrimp) or langoustines
18-24 x ½-inch slices French bread
olive oil
garlic cloves for the bread

METHOD
To make the fish stock, combine all the stock ingredients in a large saucepan, bring to the boil, cover and simmer over moderate heat for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing down hard on the solids with the back of a large spoon to extract all the flavour possible.

Thoroughly wash the leeks and finely chop the white part. The green tops have been used in the fish stock. Pour the oil into a large, heavy saucepan. Add the onions and leeks and cook over moderate heat, stirring from time to time with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes until the onions are soft. Add the garlic and cook for a minute longer. Add the tomatoes, saffron crumbled in the fingers, dried orange peel, herbs and bay leaf and cook for about 5 minutes longer until the mixture is well blended. Pour in the prepared fish stock, stir to mix a and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the Pastis. Bring to the boil over a high heat. Add the firm-fleshed fish and cook, uncovered, at a rapid boil for 5 minutes. Add the delicate fish and cook for § minutes longer, or until all the fish is tender. In the last 3 minutes add the prawns. Meanwhile, sprinkle the bread with olive oil, rub it with garlic and arrange it on a baking tin. Bake it in a preheated slow oven, 250°F, until it is dried out but not toasted.

Carefully lift out the fish on to a heated serving dish, Moisten it with a ladleful or so of the broth. Pour the broth into a warmed tureen and send to the table with the garlic bread and the fish. Pat a couple of slices or more of garlic bread into the bottom of large soup plates and pour the broth over them. If liked, spread the bread with rouille (Garlic Hot Sauce) before putting it into the soup plates, or stir a spoonful into the broth. Serve the fish separately, accompanied by the rouille, or add it to the soup plate with the broth as preferred.