Scallops and Pea Veloute with Black Bacon

I had this during the Armagh Food & Cider Festival at the Long Meadow Cidery 5-course dinner held on Sept 6, 2024 at their very fine Bramley Barn dining room. This was the starter along with a potato and apple salad.

Each small bowl contained two seared large scallops (~1.5" across) placed on top of pea veloute. On top were two small pieces of bacon cooked crisp and a few sprigs of small greens.

To serve 4

• 8 medium/large scallops
• 2 tbsp clarified butter
• 2 cups peas, fresh or frozen
• 2 rashes streaky bacon
• salt & white pepper
• small greens
  

1. Prepare the pea veloute. Cook the peas until just done. Thoroughly puree in a blender then strain through a fine sieve or tamis. Salt and pepper to taste. 
2. Cut the bacon into 1" x 2" piece and cook until crisp. 
3. Brown the scallops on high in the clarified butter on medium-high heat.
4. Spoon 1/3 cup of pea veloute into a bowl and gently place two scallops on top. Top with two pieces of the bacon and a couple of sprigs of the greens. Serve immediately.

ClearJel

To stabilize whipping cream or thicken fruit for pies and other desserts, ClearJel is the preferred choice of professional chefs. It is made from modified cornstarch that thickens instantly when it comes in contact with liquid. It will, for example, allow whipped cream to be prepared far in advance (2 days) and retain its shape.

To make whipped cream

Ingredients:

• 2 cups 35% whipping cream
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp ClearJel

Combine sugar and ClearJel and mix together. Pour whipping cream into a mixing bowl with a whip attachment. Whip on medium and gradually add in the sugar/ClearJel mixture. Mix on high speed until the desired level of whipping in reached. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For pie and pastry filling, here are the proportions to use for 1 cup of fruit:

Filling (1 cup)

ClearJel (tsp)

Apples

1/2

Blackberries & Raspberries

2 3/4

Blueberries

2

Cherries (fresh)

2

Cherries (canned or frozen)

2 1/2

Peaches

2 1/2

Strawberry and/or Rhubarb

2 1/2

McCall's Clearjel

Sources:
kingarthurbaking.com/how-to-whip-cream
kingarthurbaking.com/pie-thickener

Gluten-free Alternatives

by Paul Frysh

Rice Flour
It’ll work in pies, cakes, and cookies, but you may need to use a little less of it if the recipe calls for wheat flour. You can get white or brown rice flour. Brown has a slightly nuttier taste and grittier texture. Try some rice flour chocolate cake if you’re trying to cut back on traditional wheat flour.

Tapioca Flour
This flour, made from a dried root called cassava or manioc, is great for thickening soups and stews. And you may be able to use it in equal amounts in recipes that call for wheat flour. It makes a nice, crispy alternative to wheat flour for breading pan-fried fish or chicken.

Potato Flour
Ground from dried potatoes, a single cup has 1,600 milligrams of potassium, around half of what you need in a day. Use it to thicken creamy sauces or frozen desserts. It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in baked goods, but you can mix it with other non-wheat flours. Try adding a small amount to your favorite bread recipe to help keep it moist and fresh.

Buckwheat Flour
Despite its name, buckwheat has no relation to wheat. It’s actually closer to rhubarb, which isn’t a grain. It’s also loaded with B-vitamins, fiber, magnesium, and antioxidants. Try some buttermilk-buckwheat pancakes for your next Sunday morning feast.

Amaranth Flour
Ground amaranth seeds make up this flour that’s rich in fiber and protein. You can replace up to 25% of wheat flour in standard recipes or combine it with other non-wheat flours to make a workable gluten-free version. It has a sweet, peppery flavor that works well in darker baked goods like brownies.

Corn Flour
It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in recipes, but you can use it in all kinds of other ways. For example, you can make cornbread, muffins, pancakes, hush puppies, and polenta (a smoother version of grits). Or try combining it with shortening to make your own homemade corn tortillas.

Chickpea Flour
Dried, ground garbanzo beans make up this high-protein flour that Indian cooks call "chana" flour. Use it in savory Indian spiced pancakes, or combine it with other flours to make full-flavored baked goods.

Oat Flour
Look for packages marked “gluten free” to be sure of what you’re getting. Some oats pick up gluten during harvest or processing. The flour is dense, with a nutty flavor that works well in desserts and muffins. It uses the whole oat grain and so adds a good deal of fiber and nutrients. And oats lower cholesterol, among other health benefits. Try oat flour in something that doesn’t need to rise, like the topping on your next fruit crisp.

Coconut Flour
There’s no mistaking this flour. It tastes distinctly of the dried coconut meat that is its only ingredient. You might like it if you follow the paleo diet. It’s low in carbs, high in fiber, and has 6 grams of protein per quarter-cup. It also has 4 grams of saturated fat. In general, it’s best to use a little in any one recipe and combine it with other flours. Try some coconut flour mini-muffins.

Almond Flour
Italian cooks, among others, often use this flour in traditional cookies, cakes, and other pastries. You can make it at home if you blanch and grind almonds. A quarter-cup has 6 grams of protein, 14 grams of mostly unsaturated fat, and 3.5 grams of fiber. You can use it in savory dishes too; to encrust a fillet of flounder, for example.

Source: www.webmd.com.

Bavarian Cream

Julia Child

BAVARIAN CREAM—COLD SOUFFLE

When the ancients wrote of ambrosia, they might well have had French Bavarian cream in mind. It is velvet to the tongue, it melts in the mouth, and caresses the palate in a most sensuous fashion. Lightly held in shape by just the right amount of gelatin, it may stand alone in molded splendor, or may rise up from the dish like a majestic soufflé.

BAVAROIS A L'ORANGE

(Orange Bavarian Cream)

For about 2 quarts, serving 8 to 10 people

THE ORANGE CUSTARD

• 2 large bright skinned oranges
• ⅔ cup strained orange juice
• 1½ tbsp (1½ envelopes) unflavored gelatin
• 2 large sugar lumps
• A saucepan

One at a time, rub the sugar lumps over the oranges until all sides of each lump are impregnated with orange oil. Crush the lumps and place in a saucepan; grate the rind and add to saucepan. Squeeze the juice of the oranges, strain ⅔ cup into a measure, and sprinkle the gelatin on top so that it will soften when ready to be used.

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 7 egg yolks
• 2 tsp cornstarch
• 1½ cups milk heated in the saucepan with the orange-sugar and rind
• An enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and a wooden spoon

Gradually beat granulated sugar into the yolks in a mixing bowl, using a wire whip or electric beater. Continue beating for a minute or more, until mixture is pale and lemon-colored. Beat in the cornstarch. Then, in a thin stream of droplets, beat in the hot milk. Pour mixture into the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon over moderate heat until mixture thickens enough to coat the spoon lightly, around 170°F on a candy thermometer. Do not let custard come to boil or yolks may curdle, but you must let it heat enough to thicken properly. Remove from heat and immediately beat in the orange juice and gelatin.

THE EGG WHITES AND PRELIMINARY CHILLING

• 5 egg whites
• Pinch of salt
• ¼ tsp cream of tartar
• 2 tbsp granulated sugar

Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl for a moment until foamy, then beat in the salt and cream of tartar. Continue beating until soft peaks are formed; add sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Fold the egg whites into the hot custard sauce and chill over cracked ice or in the refrigerator, folding occasionally to keep mixture from separating. When cold but not set, proceed with next step.

WHIPPED CREAM AND FINAL FLAVORING

• ½ cup chilled whipping cream
  
• 2 tbsp orange liqueur
• A chilled mixing bowl
• A chilled beater

Beat the chilled cream until it has doubled in volume and beater leaves light traces on its surface. Fold the cream, then the liqueur, into the cold orange mixture.

TO SERVE AS A MOLDED DESSERT

• An 8-cup cylindrical mold or ring mold, preferably of metal as unmolding is easier
• A chilled serving dish

Rinse mold in cold water. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture, cover with waxed paper, and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. To unmold, dip in hot water for several seconds, quickly run a knife around inside edge of mold, then invert the serving dish over the mold. Quickly reverse the two, and in a few seconds the dessert should fall into place; if not, repeat the process. Decorate top and/or sides of the Bavarian cream with fresh, skinless orange segments flavored with sugar and a spoonful or two of orange liqueur. (Note: Bavarian cream my be frozen, and served as a frozen dessert.)

TO SERVE AS A COLD SOUFFLÉ

• A 5- to 6-cup soufflé dish

Surround soufflé dish with a waxed paper collar which stands 3 inches above the dish. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture and chill until set. Peel off paper just before serving.

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. To upscale this dessert consider adding some chocolate which goes well with orange. Try chocolate tuiles or shavings or a chocolate weave basket over the dessert. 
2. Also add orange sugar from candied orange rind that has been ground fine, or made by peeling orange rind off, slicing into julienne and drying in an oven at low heat. When thoroughly dried, pulverize in a blender. Sprinkled lightly on top of the finished dessert.
3. I also added mandarin oranges soaked in Cointreau to place on top of the dessert.
4. This dish could be made with other fruits like grapefruit, lemon, mango, etc. For mango add bottled mango juice to use for the juice required.
   

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From The French Chef Cookbook, p.113-5

Lemon Curd

Ingredients

• ½ cup fresh lemon juice
• ½ cup white sugar
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, cubed
• 3 egg yolks
• 2 tsp grated lemon zest

Directions

1. Gather all ingredients in bowls on a countertop surface.
2. Combine lemon juice, sugar, butter, eggs, and lemon zest in a saucepan.
3. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from curdling, until mixture starts to get thick and bubbles rise to the surface, about 5 to 6 minutes.
4. Remove saucepan from the heat; transfer curd into a large bowl and place a piece of plastic wrap on top to prevent a skin forming. The curd will thicken more as it cools. Store in the refrigerator. Serve and enjoy!

Lime, grapefruit or any citrus fruit could be substituted for the lemon.

Celeriac Française

This dish gives a mild celery flavour with a little beef flavour. The sprinkle of egg yolk and parsley to finish adds an additional touch. 

Ingredients

• 3-4 celeriac
• 2 cups beef stock
  
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp flour
• 3 eggs, hard boiled
  
• 1 small bunch parsley, minced
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. Cook the eggs until hard boiled. Separate the egg yolks and pass through a coarse sieve.
   
2. Cut off the root fibers of the celeriac and pare off any blemishes. Slice 3/4 inch thick and dice into 3/4 inch cubes.
3. In a saucepan, cover the celeriac in cold water and steep for 30 minutes. Drain the celeriac and pat dry in a towel.
4. In a skillet, add 1 tablespoon of butter to sauté the celeriac over low heat for 5 minutes. Add hot beef stock to barely cover, cover the pan, and cook the celeriac rapidly for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid greatly reduced.
5. Blend 1 tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon flour and drop the mixture, a little at a time, into the sauce, shaking the pan to blend thoroughly.* Simmer until the liquid is thickened, and transfer the celeriac to a heated vegetable dish.
6. Combine the sieved egg yolk and parsley, and sprinkle over the celeriac.

* - For a gluten-free alternative replace the wheat flour with a gluten-free flour, or use 1 tablespoon of tapioca starch in place of the butter and flour mixture.

Beurre Blanc

The is one of the classic French butter sauce. The recipe below from Chef Jean-Pierre is a modified version using dill and lemon juice which is especially good with fish, like a Hollandaise sauce only lighter. This sauce must be made just prior to serving – if you try to reheat it, it will break.

While preparing this sauce, it is very important to keep the temperature of the butter mixture below 120°F (50°C) to prevent it from breaking. (If it does break adding an egg yolk or two may reconstitute it, though it is then a Hollandaise sauce.)

Ingredients

• 2 ozs unsalted butter
• ¼ cup shallots minced
• ½ cup Chardonnay or other dry white wine
• ¼ cup lemon juice
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 6 ounces of room temperature (unsalted) butter cut into ½ ounce pieces
• 2 tbsps dill, chopped

Method

1. In a sauté or reduction pan heat 2 ounces butter and when hot add the shallots and slowly sweat them in the hot butter for about 3 to 4 minutes, but do not brown.
2. Add the white wine and lemon juice and let that reduce for about 10 minutes or until you have only 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid left. Add the lemon zest.
3. Reduce the heat to VERY low (if you pan is too hot let it cool a little before adding the butter). The pan should be cooler than 120°F (50°C).
4. Start adding the butter slowly, make sure each piece is incorporated before adding the next piece.
5. Use a fine mesh strainer to strain the sauce at this point.
6. Add salt and white pepper to taste and the dill.

For the standard Beurre Blanc, replace the lemon juice with white wine vinegar, and remove the dill. As an option add a pinch of cayenne pepper.

Watch the video by Chef Jean-Pierre here.

Mexican-spiced Pork Chops

Infused with robust Mexican spices, these succulent pork chops are topped with a vibrant salsa verde. This salsa is also delicious on fish tacos, scrambled eggs or as a dip for tortilla chips.

SALSA VERDE

• 1 lb medium tomatillos, about 10, husked and rinsed
• 1 small onion, cut into large chunks
• 1 jalapeno
• 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 1 medium lemon, halved crosswise & seeded
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Salt to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Sugar to taste

PORK CHOPS

• 4 bone-in pork chops, cut 1 inch thick
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• Zest and juice of 1 medium lemon
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped onion
• 1 tbsp smoked paprika
• 1 tbsp chili powder
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tsp cumin
• 2 tsp coriander
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp olive oil

1. For the salsa verde, preheat oven to 450°F.
2. Place tomatillos, onion, jalapeno, garlic and lemon on parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and toss to coat, making sure lemon halves are cut-side down. Roast until tomatillos are charred and onions are brown, about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
3. When cool enough to handle, discard garlic skins and pepper stem. Place everything in a food processor and pulse to desired consistency. If it's too thick, add water, 1 tbsp at a time. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in chopped cilantro. Season with salt and sugar, if necessary. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate up to 5 days.
4. For the pork chops, stir together all ingredients other than pork chops and olive oil in a small bowl. Place chops in a container and pour marinade over, flipping to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 1 day
5. Take chops out of fridge and preheat oven to 400°F.
6. Set a large cast-iron or oven-proof skillet over high heat. When hot, add olive oil. Swirl, then add pork chops. Cook until nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip and transfer pan to oven for 5 minutes. Flip and continue cooking in oven until chops reach an internal temperature of 145°F, about 5 minutes more.
7. Transfer chops to cooling rack and rest 5 minutes. Serve with the salsa verde. Serves 4

Spinach Soubrics

Soubrics*

• 2 quarts spinach
• 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 egg, separated
• Pinch of cayenne
• Pinch of nutmeg
• Salt to taste
• Butter for sautéing

White Sauce

• 2 cup milk
• 4 tbsp melted butter
• 4 tbsp flour
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground pepper
• ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Thoroughly wash the spinach then boil in a little water. Drain the spinach thoroughly and press out the water, and chop.
2. Add the Parmesan cheese and the yolk of the egg slightly beaten. Season with salt, cayenne, and a slight grating nutmeg and cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the white of the egg slightly beaten.
3. Make quenelles with a quenelle spoon or a tablespoon and sauté in butter.
4. Serve with a white sauce or cheese sauce.

* - Soubric is a classic French dish similar to croquettes or pancakes. It is made from puréed or minced meats or vegetables which are then thickened with eggs or flour and sometimes cream. The batter is then shaped and divided into smaller portions and sautéed in clarified butter. The shape can be like a small pancake or blinz, or made into quenelles. Soubrics are usually accompanied with a white sauce such as béchamel or allemande sauce. They are usually served as an hors-d’œuvre, amuse-bouche†, or a side for various dishes.

† - though a French term, "amuse-bouche" is not used in France; they use the term "amuse-gueule."

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. Reduce balsamic vinegar to a syrup stage and squeeze a small amount on top.
2. Cook some bacon or prosciutto until crisp. Put into blender to made in very small pieces and sprinkle on top of plated dish.

Watercress Soup With Poached Egg

by Gordon Ramsay (with additions by me)

This would make a good light dish for brunch. Because it is a fairly substantial dish, it would make a good appetizer for a light meal.

• 1 bag of watercress (retain a few leaves for garnish)
• 1 medium potato, peeled and very thinly sliced
• 1 small clove of garlic mashed into a paste
• 1 tbsp butter
• 1 cup boiling water
• 2 oz prosciutto or bacon
• 2 poached eggs
• Salt & pepper

1. Put the watercress, potato and garlic in a saucepan with the water and butter. Simmer until thoroughly cooked.
2. When cooked, put in a blender and purée. Put through a fine sieve or tamis. Season with salt & pepper to taste. It should be fairly thick.
3. Either fry the bacon until firm but not crisp or use the prosciutto as is at room temperature or cooked till not quite crisp. Cut into julienne.
4. Poach the eggs until done to the soft to medium stage.
5. Pour the watercress soup into a warmed serving bowl and place an egg on top. Place a few shreds of the prosciutto or bacon on top of the egg and garnish with a few watercress leaves.

I tried this recipe and it was pretty good, but it needed something extra for texture and taste. I added the prosciutto/bacon slivers for texture and taste, and the garlic to punch up the flavour of the soup which was a bit bland. I would also try adding a watercress, parsley, or parsley/garlic tuile as a additional garnish instead of (or with) the watercress leaves (or could try a red pepper tuile for a contrasting colour and taste. This tuile could also be made with ajvar.). See my tuile recipes.

Watermelon Sushi

An interesting twist on sushi as a dessert with sweeetened rice. You could also add or substitute mango, papaya or another fruit as the "fish" replacement or as the purée ingredient.

Ingredients

• Sushi rice (see below)
• Watermelon
• Fresh mint leaves
• Lime zest
• Balsamic vinegar or tamarind sauce
• 1 Mango
• 1 tsp sugar

Sushi Rice

• 1½ cups cold water
• 1 cup jasmine rice
• 1 cup milk
• ¼ cup white sugar
• ¼ tsp salt
• 1 egg white
• Dash of vanilla extract

1. Pour water into a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat; stir in rice. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. 
2. Combine cooked rice, 1/2 cup of milk, sugar, and salt in a clean saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until thick and creamy, about 15 minutes. 
3. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup milk and egg white; cook 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla until combined.

Assembly

1. Slice the watermelon into thin rectangles to look like tuna sushi.
2. Peel the mango and cut the flesh away from the central pit. Put the mango in a blender with a little water and the sugar, and purée. Pass through a fine sieve or tamis.
3. Form the sushi rice into fingers. Place a watermelon slice on the rice.
4. Slice the mint leaves into a fine chiffonade and sprinkle a few on top of the watermelon and add a couple of pieces of lime zest.
5. Place a couple of drops of Balsamic vinegar (or tamarind sauce) on one end of the sushi (to look like soy sauce).
6. Place a spoonful of the mango puree on a plate and place the watermelon sushi on the plate.

Other fruits could be used in place of (or in addition to) watermelon as the topping of the rice: mango, papaya, canned peaches or pears, etc.

Ideas for other "sauces" than the mango purée to use as accompaniment: lemon or lime curd, strawberry or raspberry purée.

Remoulade

Like tartar sauce, this French sauce is traditionally used as a condiment with seafood but is not as sweet.

Ingredients

• 1 cup quality mayonnaise
• 2 tbsps finely minced cornichons
• 2 tbsps finely chopped mixed herbs (tarragon is traditional; additionally try parsley, chives & chervil)
• 1 tbsp very finely minced capers
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
• ⅛ tsp anchovy paste, or half of anchovy fillet, very finely minced
• salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Place the mayonnaise in a bowl along with the remaining ingredients. Stir until the ingredients are fully combined.
2. Store covered in the fridge in an airtight container. For the best flavor, let the sauce chill in the fridge for at least 24 hours to allow time for the flavors to fully meld.
3. Sauce will keep up to 2 weeks (or two days if using home-made mayonnaise).

This dish is best prepared with a home made mayonnaise; the recipe can be found here.

Mushroom Gravy

The combination of ingredients, beef broth, wine and cream, makes this the best mushroom gravy with great depths of flavour, and especially the addition of the ground mushrooms.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsps butter, bacon grease, lard or beef drippings
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, finely minced
• 16 oz fresh mushrooms
• 1 tbsp finely ground dried Porcini or Shiitake mushrooms
• 3 tbsps unsalted butter
• 3 tbsps all-purpose flour
• 2 cups strong beef broth
• ½ cup white wine
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  
• ½ tsp salt plus more to taste
• ½ tsp sugar
• ¼ tsp dried thyme
• 1 small bunch parsley, chopped
  
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2-4 tbps heavy cream

Instructions

1. Put the dried mushrooms in a food processor and reduce to a powder.
2. Melt the butter (or bacon grease, lard or beef drippings) in a pan over medium-high heat and fry the mushrooms and cook 7-8 minutes or until golden and the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated.
3. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Add the ground mushrooms and cook for another minute.
4. Add the butter and melt. Add the flour, stir to combine and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring continually. This will cook off the flour flavor and brown the flour to create more depth of flavour in the gravy.
5. Add the beef broth, wine, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, sugar, parsley, salt and pepper. Whisk continually until the gravy is thickened. Cover and simmer on low, stirring occasionally, for 5-10 minutes. Add cream, and salt and pepper to taste. If you prefer the gravy thinner add a little more cream, beef broth or water; if it is too thin, let it simmer on medium-low until it reaches the desired thickness.

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Spicy Tuna Fish Cakes - Gordon Ramsay

An easy to make delicious snack or appetizer that takes canned tuna up to another level.

Ingredients

• 2 cans (~400g) tinned tuna
• 6 tinned water chestnuts, drained and finely sliced
• 3 green onions, trimmed and sliced
• 1 inch piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 3 tbsp chopped cilantro
• 1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely minced
• 3 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped (or zest from 1 lime - used below)
• 2 tsp Thai fish sauce
• 2 eggs, beaten
• Vegetable or light olive oil, for frying
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Dipping Sauce

• ½ tsp sugar
• 1 green onion, trimmed and sliced
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 2 tbsp Thai fish sauce
• 2 tsp rice vinegar
• Juice of ½ a lime
• 2 tbsp chopped cilantro

Directions

1. Drain the tuna in a sieve. Slice the water chestnuts very thin. Slice the green onion thin. Finely grate the peeled ginger root. Chop up the cilantro leaves. Finely mince the garlic. Open the red chili, discard seeds, and finely mince. Roll up the lime leaves and chiffonade.
2. Combine all of the above ingredients adding the fish sauce, salt and pepper, and then mix.
3. Beat the two eggs thoroughly and add to mixture. Use hands to thoroughly mix all the ingredients together.
4. Take a small handful of the mixture and form into a ball and then flatten until about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick.
5. Heat the pan on medium and add the cooking oil. Place cakes in pan and fry until browned then turn to cook the other side. Set on a rack to drain and cool.
6. Make the dipping sauce by combining all of the ingredients and pouring into a small bowl.

Gluten and Glyphosate

Celiac disease is becoming more common and is thought, primarily, to be caused by the gluten found in wheat, spelt, barley, rye, and a few other less common grains. However, glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, is common in wheat production in North America and elsewhere, yet people with cileac disease report having breads or pastas in Italy and not having digestive issues.

Italian wheat is typically made from "soft" wheat as opposed to the "hard" wheat grown in North America.

See this article which addresses the isssue of "Gluten Intolerant or Glyphosate Intolerant?"

Brown-braised Onions

Oignons Glaces a Brun

Brown-braised onions are used whenever you wish a brown effect, such as in brown fricassees like Coq au Vin and Boeuf Bourguignon, or in a mixture with other vegetables.*

Preparation is a two-step process: first browning the onions in a saucepan then braising in stock or wine. The braising can be done two ways: in a saucepan on stove top or baked in an oven.

For 18 to 24 peeled white pearl onions about 1 inch in diameter.

Browning

• 1½ tbsp butter
• 1½ tbsp oil
• A 9- to 10-inch enameled skillet

When the butter and oil are bubbling in the skillet, add the onions and saute over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling the onions about so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect to brown them uniformly.

Braising

• ½ cup of brown stock, canned beef bouillon, dry white wine, or red wine
• Salt and pepper to taste
• A medium herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, ½ bay leaf, and ¼ tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth

Then either braise them as follows:

Pour in the liquid, season to taste, and add the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet. Serve them as they are, or follow one of the suggestions at the end of the recipe.

Or bake them as follows:

Transfer the onions and their sauteing fat to a shallow baking dish or casserole just large enough to hold them in one layer. Set uncovered in upper third of a preheated 350-degree oven for 40 to 50 minutes, turning them over once or twice. They should be very tender, retain their shape, and be a nice golden brown. Remove herb bouquet. Serve them as they are or according to one of the following suggestions.

* - The onions may be cooked hours in advance, and reheated before serving.

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Serving Suggestions

Parslied Onions
Roll the hot onions in 1-2 tbsp of butter. Turn them into a hot vegetables dish or place them around your roast, and sprinkle with 1 tbsp minced parsley.

Vegetables Mixture
Braised onions go nicely mixed with other vegetables such as glazed carrots, sautéed mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and sautéed potatoes.

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From Mastering the Art of French Cooking, vol. 1, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle & Simone Beck, p.483

Cheese Boards

Make a cheese board for a party or an elaborate meal. A typical board has a selection of cheese with a few nuts, often walnuts, and some small fruits like grapes and blueberries or raspberries. Another accompaniment is various savory and sweet condiments. Here are a few suggestions by chef Vicky Bisht:

Celeriac Terrine With Red Pepper Sauce

Ingredients

This recipe can be used to make a large portion for brunch or a smaller portion as an appetizer.

Celeriac terrine

• 1½ lb celeriac
• 1 oz butter
• 5 oz strong Cheddar cheese, grated
• 1 oz grated Parmesan cheese
• 4 tbsp snipped chives
• 3 eggs
• ¼ tsp celery salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Cherry tomatoes, parsley and chives for garnish

Red pepper sauce

• 2 tbsp olive oil
  
• 2 small onions, finely sliced
• 2 red peppers
• 5 fl oz chicken or vegetable stock
• Salt
• ¼ tsp hot sauce - Frank's Red Hot, Tabasco, etc. (optional)
  
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 1 tbsp heavy cream (optional)

Instructions

Prepare the terrine and while it is cooking prepare the red pepper sauce

Celeriac Terrine

1. Pre-heat the oven to 325℉.
2. There are two ways to prepare the terrine: (1) Grease and line a 1 lb loaf tin with a piece of non-stick parchment paper to cover the base and extend up the short sides. Grease again. (2) Grease individual terrines lightly inside then coat with fine bread crumbs.
3. Steam or boil the celeriac until tender: usually 12-15 minutes. Drain the celeriac and place in a bowl.
4. Add the butter to the celeriac and mash, but don’t purée because some texture is good in this dish. Mix in the grated Cheddar and Parmesan cheeses, the chives, eggs and salt and pepper to taste.
5. Spoon the mixture into the large tin or the terrines and level to the top. Bake for about 50 minutes or until the terrine feels firm to the touch, is golden-brown and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean.
6. When the terrine is cooked, remove from the oven and allow to stand for 5 minutes or so before slipping a knife around the edges to loosen, then turn it out onto a warm plate.

Red Pepper Sauce*

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan, put in the onions and cook over a gentle heat with the pan lid on for about 10 minutes until the onions are softened but not browned. Meanwhile, wash the peppers and cut into rough pieces.
2. Add the peppers to the onions, cover the pan again and cook gently for a further 5-10 minutes until the peppers are thoroughly cooked.
3. Pour in the stock. Cover and simmer for about 10 minutes or until the peppers are tender.
4. Liquidize the sauce in a blender, strain through a sieve or tamis into a clean saucepan. If sauce is not thick enough, simmer to reduce.
5. Season the sauce with salt, pepper and optional hot sauce to taste. Reserve butter.
   

Assembly

1. Just before serving, reheat the sauce. Take off the heat and whisk in the cold butter, a little at a time, to make the sauce glossy. Stir in the heavy cream.
2. Serve the terrine with the sauce and garnish with halved cherry tomatoes, sprigs of parsley and small strips of chives.
3. For brunch, serve along with some cooked green vegetables like green beans or broccoli.

* - for a quicker sauce, replace the red pepper sauce with ajvar. Purée in a blender adding water or stock if too thick; finish as above.

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. Make a thick purée of sun dried tomato and pipe on top of plated dish.
2. Reduce some balsamic vinegar to a syrup stage and squeeze a small amount on top.
3. Add parsley, tomato or red pepper tuile.

Tuile Recipes

Tuile is the name for the very thin pastry made to be formed into a wafer or a roll to hold appetizers. Another use of a tuile preparation is to make molded creations for decoration using tuile molds.
Following are some sweet and savory preparations for tuile.

Red pepper tuile

Honey Tuile

Ingredients

• 1¼oz (35gm) butter
• 1¼oz (35gm) honey
• 1¼oz (35gm) egg white (about 1 egg white)
• 1¼oz (35gm) all purpose flour
• 1-2 drops of yellow food colouring
  
• Honeycomb tuile mold
  

Method

1. Melt butter and honey together in a microwave
2. Add all ingredients together and mix with whisk until smooth
3. Spread on mold and bake for about 8 minutes at 320°F (160°C)
4. Carefully remove from mold before cooled. The tuile will be soft until it cools.

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Chocolate Tuile

Ingredients

• 2oz (60gm) icing sugar
• ¾oz (20gm) Cocoa powder – 100%
• 1¾ (50gm) wheat flour
• Pinch (2gm) salt
• 2 Egg whites
• 1oz (30gm) Butter

Directions

1. Mix all the ingredients very well with the help of a whisk, spread in a very thin silicone mold.
2. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (180°C) for approximately 4 minutes or until dry.
3. Let cool on a wire rack and store in an airtight container.

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Raspberry Tuile

Ingredients

• 18oz (500gm) raspberry purée
• 3½oz (100gm) water
• 3½oz (100gm) sugar
• 1¾oz (50gm) lemon juice
• ⅓oz (8gm) gelatin

Method

Mix all ingredients together and pass through a fine sieve. Spread into molds. Refrigerate for 1 hour then unmold.

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Sugar Tuile

This is a neutral recipe for a sweet tuile that can be used for decoration for a variety of dishes or drinks without altering the taste.

Ingredients

• 1¾ (50gm) Butter
• 1¾ (50gm) Egg White
• 1¾ (50gm) Flour
• 1¾ (50gm) Powdered Sugar
• Food coloring (optional)

Method

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan
2. Add the egg white, flour and sugar
3. Mix the ingredients until you get a homogeneous mixture
4. If you want, add food coloring based on the intensity of color you want to obtain
5. Pour the mixture into the mold and remove the excess
6. Cook in a preheated oven at 150°C for 6 minutes
7. Let the mold cool and remove the garnishes
8. The garnishes are ready to use on your drinks

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Garlic Tuile

Ingredients

• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3-4 large garlic cloves, mashed into a paste
• 1 tbsp fresh chives, finely minced
• 1 tbsp Italian parsley, finely minced
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• A pinch cayenne pepper
• ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• ½ tsp salt
• 2 extra-large egg whites
• 1 tsp confectioner’s sugar

Method

1. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. When bubbling, stir in the garlic and allow to sizzle for a few seconds then and remove from the heat. Add minced chives, parsley, freshly ground black pepper to taste and cayenne.
2. Position oven rack to center shelf and preheat to 350°F.
3. Whisk together the flour and salt, and set aside.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk egg whites until just frothy, not stiff. Add the sugar and whisk till smooth.
5. Sift in the flour, then pour in the garlic-chive butter and whisk till smooth.
6. Spread on mold and bake for 5-8 minutes. This mixture can also be spread on a plastic or silicon mat to make wafers.

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Red Pepper Tuile

Ingredients

Red pepper purée

• 5 red peppers
• 3½ fl oz of olive oil
• 1 sprig of rosemary
• 1 sprig of thyme
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled
• salt

Tuile base

• 1½ tbsp of sugar
• 1½ tbsp of water
• 1⅔ fl oz of lemon juice
• salt

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. For the red pepper purée, halve the peppers, cut the cores out, discard the seeds and then cut each half pepper in half again.
3. Heat the olive oil in a roasting tray. When it is hot, add the peppers and then the rosemary, thyme, garlic cloves and sea salt.
4. Cook in the oven for approximately 30-40 minutes or until all of the ingredients are well roasted
5. Remove the rosemary stalks and any thyme twigs, then place into a blender and purée to a very fine texture. Pass through a fine sieve or tamis and leave to cool
6. To make a sugar syrup, combine the sugar and water in a pan. Place over a medium heat, stirring constantly, to completely dissolve the sugar before the mixture begins to boil. Heat gently until the mixture starts to thicken, remove from the heat and leave to cool.
7. To make the tuiles, add the syrup, glucose, lemon juice and salt to the red pepper purée. Spread the purée very thinly onto a plastic or silicon mat and place into the oven at 190ºF for about 2½ hours.
8. While still warm from the oven, cut the tuile into strips about 4 inches wide and roll into tubes or shaped into cones to serve as a holder for purées or other appetizer mixtures. See my equipment page for cone molds.

Alternately the uncooked mixture can be spread onto tuile molds and baked as per the above instructions. Leave to cool then remove from the molds.

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Parsley Tuile

Parsley could be replaced with thyme or rosemary to suit the dish. It may be necessary to finely grind rosemary and even pass through a tamis.

Ingredients

• 1 bunch parsley, leaves only
• 3½ oz (100gm) wheat flour
• 4 egg whites
• 1½ oz (50gm) butter
• pinch of salt

Directions

1. Mix all the ingredients in a blender until it forms a very uniform paste, spread in the silicone mold and place on the tray.
2. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (180°C) until dry — approximately 6 to 7 minutes.
3. Let cool on a rack.
4. Store in an airtight container.

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Get some tuile recipes from Frida Molds here.

Patum Peperium - The Gentleman's Relish

The recipe for Gentleman's Relish has remained a secret since it was first invented by John Osborn in 1828. It is wonderful spread on hot toast and added to scrambled eggs. It is the essential ingredient for Scotch Woodcock - a Victorian snack served at the end of a meal! This is my interpretation of this famous English relish.

Ingredients

• 7 oz (200gm) anchovies, drained & coarsely chopped
• 2 tbsps fresh white breadcrumbs
• 5⅓ oz (150gm) butter
• 1⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 pinch ground cinnamon
• 1 pinch freshly ground nutmeg
• 1 pinch ground mace
• 1 pinch ground ginger
• 1 dash fresh ground black pepper

Directions

1. For a less salty relish, soak the anchovies in warm water for an hour or so.
2. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the anchovies and butter until they resemble a smooth paste. You could also use a food processor.
3. Stir in the breadcrumbs, spices and pepper and spoon the paste into a large ramekin. Cover and chill before serving.
4. Serve with scrambled eggs, toast, sandwiches and as a "kick" to savoury sauces!

 

Source: Food.com

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Scotch Woodcock is Victorian dish served as an after dinner course as an alternative to dessert but now more often served as a snack or accompaniment to lunch. It is a simple recipe of scrambled eggs and toast. Spread the Gentleman's Relish on the warm toast and top with a large dollop of scrambled eggs and sprinkle with chopped parsley. For those wishing a more intense anchovy flavour, top the scrambled eggs with one or two anchovy fillets.

Scallops with Leeks

From the Two Fat Ladies cookbook

• 12 fresh large (or 24 small) scallops on their shells
• 8 young leeks
• 2oz unsalted butter
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 5oz dry white wine
• 4 tbsp dry vermouth
• 5oz thick cream
• salt and freshly ground pepper
  
• a bunch of parsley, flat-leaf preferably, roughly chopped

Remove the scallops from their shells or ask your fishmonger to do this. Separate the white flesh from the corals, and detach the hard skin round the whites and the tiny black sac from the coral. Wash clean under a running tap. Halve the whites horizontally. Leave to dry off on some paper towel.

Wash the leeks and discard the green parts (you can use them for soup or stock). Slice the white stems lengthwise into narrow strips about 2in long. Place in a saucepan with 1 oz of the butter, a pinch of salt and 8 tablespoons of water. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Keep hot.

In another pan melt the rest of the butter and then gently cook the shallots until they are soft. Add the wine, vermouth and the scallops with their corals. Bring just to boiling point, then turn the heat very low and simmer for exactly 2 minutes, or less if the scallops are small.

Remove the leeks from their liquid using a slotted instrument and place in a heated dish. With the same implement place the scallops on top. Add the leek juice to the scallop juice and boil briskly until the liquid is reduced to 8 tablespoonsful. Pour in the cream, bring back to the boil and bubble for a moment or two. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over the arranged scallops and leeks. Scatter the chopped parsley over all.

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This recipe could be modified to make a terrine by putting a layer of the cooked leaks on the bottom of a terrine form and topping with one or two scallops (depending on their size). Push out of the form and sprinkle with some chopped parsley (or finely chopped chives). Reduce and strain the liquid ingredients to make a sauce poured around the base of the terrine.

The Two Fat Ladies, Ebury Press, London, 1996. p.26

Food & Drink Festivals

St. Moritz Gourmet Festival, St. Moritz, Switzerland
January 29-February 3, 2024

Since 1994, the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival has attracted a lavish epicurean crowd, luring over 80,000 lovers of all things food and drink. Participants and chefs alike are rewarded with carefully prepared dishes and meals in hotels and venues throughout the region.
Ticket-buying participants can count on a fusion of culinary tastes and styles. Culinary professionals are matched up to cook multi-course meals in hotels like the Carlton, Suvretta House, and Grand Hotel Kronenhof. Wine tastings, a mountaintop brunch, and the festival's finale, introduce participants to many of the award-winning chefs for open conversation as well as great food and wine.

Download itinerary PDF here.

Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, Melbourne, Australia
March 15-24, 2024

This festival celebrates Victoria’s world-class food scene by having famous chefs, masterclasses, wine tastings, and other food-themed events that bring foodies from all over the world.

Royal Bath & West Food & Drink Festival, Shepton Mallet, England
March 22-24, 2024

"The British Cheese Awards will be front and centre of the Food & Drink Festival, taking place in our main hall with visitors being able to view and taste some of the award-winning cheeses! Delicious food & drink stands will surround the British Cheese Awards, giving you the opportunity to peruse and enjoy a huge range for mouth-watering food & drink from the Southwest of England."
Accommodations near the Showgrounds: Prestleigh Inn (1/2 mile), The Pecking Mill Inn (1.2 miles), Middleton House Bed & Breakfast (2.5 miles), Maplestone (2.9 miles), The Lion at West Pennard (6.7 miles). Note that Wells, the nearest large town, is 7 1/2 miles from the Showgrounds; Glastonbury is 11 1/2 miles away.

Toronto Food & Drink Fest, Metro Toronto Convention Centre
April 5-7, 2024

"Taste the very best from local chefs, restaurants, winemakers, spirit, beer and cider companies, quality culinary products plus get all the latest food & drink trends.
Grab your friends and prepare your tastebuds for 3 epic days of tastings, classes, pairings and music."

Taste of Chicago, Chicago, IL
September 6-8, 2024

Taste of Chicago is one of the most popular and biggest food festivals in the world. It shows off the city’s diverse food scene by having many vendors sell tasty bites along the famous Grant Park.

Salon Du Chocolat, Porte de Versailles, Paris
October 30 - November 3, 2024

For 5 days, you met the key players in the chocolate and cocoa industry. They all came to give you an unforgettable experience! Chocolatiers, pastry chefs, confectioners, cocoa producers, major brands, food bloggers: they shared their passion with you.

Le Dîner en Blanc - Worldwide
Various dates depending on location

Le Dîner en Blanc is a unique global event where people dress in white and meet at secret places to enjoy a gourmet picnic. This creates a visually stunning and elegant dining experience.

Tuna Tapenade

Use this as a sandwich spread or on crackers or rounds of bread for appetizers.

• 1 5oz. can of tuna, drained 
• 2 anchovies, minced 
• 2 cloves garlic, minced 
• ½ cup pitted black olives 
• 1 tbsp lemon juice 
• ½ tsp black pepper 
• 4 oz. olive oil, cream cheese or butter 

Place tuna, anchovies, garlic and olives in a food processor. Pulse until contents are finely chopped. Blend in lemon juice, pepper and olive oil, cream cheese or butter. Purée until smooth.

Aspic

The aspic adds that professional touch to a terrine or paté. You may also place thin carrot slices or other garnish in the aspic. If you wish to chop the aspic to garnish a dish use 4 tbsp of gelatin instead of 3.

Yields: 3-4 cups aspic

Ingredients

• 4 cups beef, pork or chicken broth, canned or clarified
• 3-4 tbsps unflavored gelatin (for a very stiff aspic use 4 tbsp gelatin)
• 1⁄2 cup dry white wine or red wine

Directions

1. Pour 1 cup of the broth into a saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin on top.
2. Let it sit for 5 minutes.
3. Heat until the gelatin has melted.
4. In another saucepan heat the remaining broth and wine to the boiling point and combine the two liquids.
5. Chill until syrupy and almost settled, then pour into paté molds and refrigerate.

Tomato Aspic Salad

By Martha Hall Foose

Yield: 8 servings

This tomato aspic is like a wobbly take on a Virgin Mary. Created by award-winning chef Martha Hall Foose, the base is a duo of canned tomato juice and gelatin, which is flavored with essential Bloody Mary ingredients. The savory gelatin is served in individual ramekins and studded with onion, bell pepper, and celery.

Ingredients

• 24 ounces canned tomato juice
• 2 envelopes unflavored powdered gelatin (~1½ tablespoons)
• 2 tsp brown sugar
• ¼ tsp ground black pepper
• 1 tbsp Bloody Mary rimming spice mixture*
• ¼ tsp cumin (if not in rimming spice above)
  
• ½ tsp hot sauce
• ½ tsp finely grated lemon zest
• 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• Vegetable oil, for brushing
• ¼ cup mild onion―green onion, Vidalia, Spanish onion or Shallot, finely chopped (~1/16 inch slices for green onion or 1/8 inch dice for others)
  
• 2 tbsp green bell pepper, finely chopped (~1/8 inch square)
• ¼ cup inner celery ribs or celery root, finely chopped (~1/8 inch square)
• Sliced hard-boiled eggs, steamed asparagus (cooled) and leaf lettuce

Directions

1. In a large bowl, combine 1/2 cup of the tomato juice with the gelatin; let stand for 5 minutes. In a saucepan, combine the remaining tomato juice with the sugar, salt, rimming spices, hot sauce, lemon zest and lemon juice and heat just until warm. Add the gelatin mixture and stir until it dissolves completely. Return the mixture to the bowl and refrigerate until cold but not set, about 1 hour.
   
2. Lightly oil eight 1/2-cup ramekins. Stir the onion, pepper and celery into the tomato aspic and spoon it into the ramekins. [You could also add a piece of celery leaf to the bottom of each ramekin.]  Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, until chilled and set.
3. Unmold each aspic onto a lettuce leaf on a plate, and serve with a sliced hard-boiled egg and a few asparagus stalks. As an option also serve with a couple of inner celery stalks. Lightly salt and pepper the egg slices.
   

To add an additional level to this dish, add a smear of celeriac pureé to the plate. And could also add a tuile of parsley, celery, red pepper or onion (using onion powder).

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* – Use either a pre-made commercial Bloody Mary rimming spice mixture or follow the recipe below:

• ¼ cup Kosher Salt
• 1 tbsp Celery Salt
• 1 tbsp Cumin
• 1 tbsp Garlic powder
• 1 tbsp Smoked Paprika
• 1 tsp Black Pepper
• ¼ tsp Dry Mustard Powder
• ¼ tsp Dry Powdered Ginger

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Download PDF.

Hungarian Mushroom Soup

Ingredients

• 2 cups chicken broth 
• ½ cup dry white wine
• 4 tbsp butter
• 2 cups chopped onion
• 1 lb mushrooms, sliced
  
• 2 tsp paprika
• 2 tsp thyme
• 2 tsp dill
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 cup whole milk
• 3 tbsp flour
• ¼ cup sour cream
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Small bunch of spinach (optional)
  

Directions

1. Sauté mushrooms and onions in butter for about 15-20 minutes. Add broth, wine, soy sauce and seasonings, and simmer on low till reduced by half.
2. Mix flour and milk and add slowly. Simmer until thick, 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste.
3. Add optional spinach if you want and simmer until fully wilted.
4. Stir in sour cream and lemon juice just before serving.