Pork Dim Sum

by Jay Wadams

Pork Dim Sum (Siu Mai) are one of the most famous and delicious meals served from the Dim Sum trolley. Luckily, they are also simple to make at home and you can fill these delicious morsels with all your favourite flavours.

These pork dumplings might be often called dim sum, but they are actually just one type of dim sum dish called "siu mai/shu mai". The term "dim sum" actually refers to a whole meal of many different dishes.

Ground pork: either make your own ground pork or have it ground for you at the butcher for best results. Use pork with a decent fat content, so add a bit of pork belly or bacon if it is not fat enough. Lean pork is not suitable as it can taste a little dry.
Dumpling wrappers: You can find these in the freezer or fridge section at most Asian stores as well as grocery stores with a decent international foods section. They are sold under the name gow gee wrappers or wonton wrappers.
Soy sauce: use light soy sauce as dark soy a little overpowering.
Rice vinegar: This adds a tanginess and balance to the recipe. If you can’t get rice vinegar, substitute apple cider vinegar.
Green onions or scallions: These cook faster than standard onions, so you can put them raw into the dim sum mixture.

• ½ lb minced pork
• 2 green onions or scallions, finely sliced
• ½ red chili pepper, diced
• 1 small bunch fresh coriander/cilantro, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, finely grated
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
• ½ tsp sugar
• ½ tsp sea salt
• 24 wonton or dumpling wrappers, defrosted if frozen
• parchment paper or lettuce leaves
  
• bamboo steamer

Dipping sauce:

• 3 tbsp rice vinegar
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• ½ red chili pepper, sliced
• a squeeze of fresh lime

Method

1. Prepare the steamer: cut a disc of parchment paper to the size of your steaming basket and poke numerous holes in the the paper with the end of a sharp knife, or lay a single layer of lettuce leaves in the steaming basket. Soak the base of the bamboo steamer in cold water.
2. In a large bowl, mix together all of the filling ingredients until well combined. Use your hands to knead until smooth.
3. Dust a baking sheet or large plate with cornstarch.
4. Next, take one dumpling wrapper, hold it in the palm of your hand and place a heaping teaspoon of the meat filling in the middle. Fold the edges of the wrapper up all around the meat, forming a pouch that’s open at the top. Gently press the wrapper against the filling so that it sticks. If you find the wonton skin is really not sticking, wet your index finger and use it to pinch the sides together. Place on the prepared tray and repeat. Cover and chill until needed.

Cooking

1. Fill the bottom of a wok or large frying pan with a couple of cups of water. The water should come around 3/4 inch up the sides of your steaming basket, but not touch the bottom of the dumplings.
2. Bring the water to a boil, then place the closed steaming basket on top.
3. Steam the dumplings for 10 minutes.
4. Serve the pork dim sum immediately with the dipping sauce.

Variations

1. Add prawn/shrimp: These dumplings are often made with a mixture of pork and prawn. Stir in as much finely diced prawns as you like and continue as per the recipe.
2. If you want to bulk out these dumplings, add some diced water chestnuts or mushrooms to make the filling mixture go a little further.

Ma B's Pizza Casserole

• 4 cups of cooked pasta – shells or corkscrew 
• 750ml spaghetti sauce 
• 1 cup Parmesan cheese grated 
• 1 cup pepperoni, sliced 
• 1 cup green pepper, sliced 
• 1 cup mushrooms, sliced (optional) 
• 2 cups mozzarella, grated

1. Combine the pasta, Parmesan cheese and half the spaghetti sauce in a 2 quart casserole dish.
2. Pour the remaining sauce over the top of the pasta mixture. Scatter the pepperoni, green pepper and mushroom on top of the pasta mixture. Top with the mozzarella. (If using bacon, cook until half cooked before adding to the casserole.)
   
3. Bake at 350ºF for about 40 minutes or until it is thoroughly heated through. 
4. Optionally, after being thoroughly cooked, place under a broiler to lightly brown the cheese.

Scallops and Pea Veloute with Bacon

I had this during the Armagh Food & Cider Festival at the Long Meadow Cidery 5-course dinner held on Sept 6, 2024 at their very fine Bramley Barn dining room. This was the starter along with a potato and apple salad.

Each small bowl contained two seared large scallops (~1.5" across) placed on top of pea veloute. On top were two small pieces of bacon cooked crisp and a few sprigs of small greens.

To serve 4

• 8 medium/large scallops
• 2 tbsp clarified butter
• 2 cups peas, fresh or frozen
• 2 rashes streaky bacon
• salt & white pepper
• small greens
  

1. Prepare the pea veloute. Cook the peas until just done. Thoroughly puree in a blender then strain through a fine sieve or tamis. Salt and pepper to taste.
2. Cut the bacon into 1" x 2" piece and cook until crisp.
3. Brown the scallops on high in the clarified butter on medium-high heat.
4. Spoon 1/3 cup of pea veloute into a bowl and gently place two scallops on top. Top with two pieces of the bacon and a couple of sprigs of the greens. Serve immediately.

ClearJel

To stabilize whipping cream or thicken fruit for pies and other desserts, ClearJel is the preferred choice of professional chefs. It is made from modified cornstarch that thickens instantly when it comes in contact with liquid. It will, for example, allow whipped cream to be prepared far in advance (2 days) and retain its shape.

To make whipped cream

Ingredients:

• 2 cups 35% whipping cream
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp ClearJel

Combine sugar and ClearJel and mix together. Pour whipping cream into a mixing bowl with a whip attachment. Whip on medium and gradually add in the sugar/ClearJel mixture. Mix on high speed until the desired level of whipping in reached. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For pie and pastry filling, here are the proportions to use for 1 cup of fruit:

Filling (1 cup)

ClearJel (tsp)

Apples

1/2

Blackberries & Raspberries

2 3/4

Blueberries

2

Cherries (fresh)

2

Cherries (canned or frozen)

2 1/2

Peaches

2 1/2

Strawberry and/or Rhubarb

2 1/2

McCall's Clearjel

Sources:
kingarthurbaking.com/how-to-whip-cream
kingarthurbaking.com/pie-thickener

Gluten-free Alternatives

by Paul Frysh

Rice Flour
It’ll work in pies, cakes, and cookies, but you may need to use a little less of it if the recipe calls for wheat flour. You can get white or brown rice flour. Brown has a slightly nuttier taste and grittier texture. Try some rice flour chocolate cake if you’re trying to cut back on traditional wheat flour.

Tapioca Flour
This flour, made from a dried root called cassava or manioc, is great for thickening soups and stews. And you may be able to use it in equal amounts in recipes that call for wheat flour. It makes a nice, crispy alternative to wheat flour for breading pan-fried fish or chicken.

Potato Flour
Ground from dried potatoes, a single cup has 1,600 milligrams of potassium, around half of what you need in a day. Use it to thicken creamy sauces or frozen desserts. It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in baked goods, but you can mix it with other non-wheat flours. Try adding a small amount to your favorite bread recipe to help keep it moist and fresh.

Buckwheat Flour
Despite its name, buckwheat has no relation to wheat. It’s actually closer to rhubarb, which isn’t a grain. It’s also loaded with B-vitamins, fiber, magnesium, and antioxidants. Try some buttermilk-buckwheat pancakes for your next Sunday morning feast.

Amaranth Flour
Ground amaranth seeds make up this flour that’s rich in fiber and protein. You can replace up to 25% of wheat flour in standard recipes or combine it with other non-wheat flours to make a workable gluten-free version. It has a sweet, peppery flavor that works well in darker baked goods like brownies.

Corn Flour
It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in recipes, but you can use it in all kinds of other ways. For example, you can make cornbread, muffins, pancakes, hush puppies, and polenta (a smoother version of grits). Or try combining it with shortening to make your own homemade corn tortillas.

Chickpea Flour
Dried, ground garbanzo beans make up this high-protein flour that Indian cooks call "chana" flour. Use it in savory Indian spiced pancakes, or combine it with other flours to make full-flavored baked goods.

Oat Flour
Look for packages marked “gluten free” to be sure of what you’re getting. Some oats pick up gluten during harvest or processing. The flour is dense, with a nutty flavor that works well in desserts and muffins. It uses the whole oat grain and so adds a good deal of fiber and nutrients. And oats lower cholesterol, among other health benefits. Try oat flour in something that doesn’t need to rise, like the topping on your next fruit crisp.

Coconut Flour
There’s no mistaking this flour. It tastes distinctly of the dried coconut meat that is its only ingredient. You might like it if you follow the paleo diet. It’s low in carbs, high in fiber, and has 6 grams of protein per quarter-cup. It also has 4 grams of saturated fat. In general, it’s best to use a little in any one recipe and combine it with other flours. Try some coconut flour mini-muffins.

Almond Flour
Italian cooks, among others, often use this flour in traditional cookies, cakes, and other pastries. You can make it at home if you blanch and grind almonds. A quarter-cup has 6 grams of protein, 14 grams of mostly unsaturated fat, and 3.5 grams of fiber. You can use it in savory dishes too; to encrust a fillet of flounder, for example.

Source: www.webmd.com.

Bavarian Cream

Julia Child

BAVARIAN CREAM—COLD SOUFFLE

When the ancients wrote of ambrosia, they might well have had French Bavarian cream in mind. It is velvet to the tongue, it melts in the mouth, and caresses the palate in a most sensuous fashion. Lightly held in shape by just the right amount of gelatin, it may stand alone in molded splendor, or may rise up from the dish like a majestic soufflé.

BAVAROIS A L'ORANGE

(Orange Bavarian Cream)

For about 2 quarts, serving 8 to 10 people

THE ORANGE CUSTARD

• 2 large bright skinned oranges
• ⅔ cup strained orange juice
• 1½ tbsp (1½ envelopes) unflavored gelatin
• 2 large sugar lumps
• A saucepan

One at a time, rub the sugar lumps over the oranges until all sides of each lump are impregnated with orange oil. Crush the lumps and place in a saucepan; grate the rind and add to saucepan. Squeeze the juice of the oranges, strain ⅔ cup into a measure, and sprinkle the gelatin on top so that it will soften when ready to be used.

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 7 egg yolks
• 2 tsp cornstarch
• 1½ cups milk heated in the saucepan with the orange-sugar and rind
• An enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and a wooden spoon

Gradually beat granulated sugar into the yolks in a mixing bowl, using a wire whip or electric beater. Continue beating for a minute or more, until mixture is pale and lemon-colored. Beat in the cornstarch. Then, in a thin stream of droplets, beat in the hot milk. Pour mixture into the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon over moderate heat until mixture thickens enough to coat the spoon lightly, around 170°F on a candy thermometer. Do not let custard come to boil or yolks may curdle, but you must let it heat enough to thicken properly. Remove from heat and immediately beat in the orange juice and gelatin.

THE EGG WHITES AND PRELIMINARY CHILLING

• 5 egg whites
• Pinch of salt
• ¼ tsp cream of tartar
• 2 tbsp granulated sugar

Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl for a moment until foamy, then beat in the salt and cream of tartar. Continue beating until soft peaks are formed; add sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Fold the egg whites into the hot custard sauce and chill over cracked ice or in the refrigerator, folding occasionally to keep mixture from separating. When cold but not set, proceed with next step.

WHIPPED CREAM AND FINAL FLAVORING

• ½ cup chilled whipping cream
  
• 2 tbsp orange liqueur
• A chilled mixing bowl
• A chilled beater

Beat the chilled cream until it has doubled in volume and beater leaves light traces on its surface. Fold the cream, then the liqueur, into the cold orange mixture.

TO SERVE AS A MOLDED DESSERT

• An 8-cup cylindrical mold or ring mold, preferably of metal as unmolding is easier
• A chilled serving dish

Rinse mold in cold water. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture, cover with waxed paper, and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. To unmold, dip in hot water for several seconds, quickly run a knife around inside edge of mold, then invert the serving dish over the mold. Quickly reverse the two, and in a few seconds the dessert should fall into place; if not, repeat the process. Decorate top and/or sides of the Bavarian cream with fresh, skinless orange segments flavored with sugar and a spoonful or two of orange liqueur. (Note: Bavarian cream my be frozen, and served as a frozen dessert.)

TO SERVE AS A COLD SOUFFLÉ

• A 5- to 6-cup soufflé dish

Surround soufflé dish with a waxed paper collar which stands 3 inches above the dish. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture and chill until set. Peel off paper just before serving.

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. To upscale this dessert consider adding some chocolate which goes well with orange. Try chocolate tuiles or shavings or a chocolate weave basket over the dessert. 
2. Also add orange sugar from candied orange rind that has been ground fine, or made by peeling orange rind off, slicing into julienne and drying in an oven at low heat. When thoroughly dried, pulverize in a blender. Sprinkled lightly on top of the finished dessert.
3. I also added mandarin oranges soaked in Cointreau to place on top of the dessert.
4. This dish could be made with other fruits like grapefruit, lemon, mango, etc. For mango add bottled mango juice to use for the juice required.
   

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From The French Chef Cookbook, p.113-5

Lemon Curd

Ingredients

• ½ cup fresh lemon juice
• ½ cup white sugar
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, cubed
• 3 egg yolks
• 2 tsp grated lemon zest

Directions

1. Gather all ingredients in bowls on a countertop surface.
2. Combine lemon juice, sugar, butter, eggs, and lemon zest in a saucepan.
3. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from curdling, until mixture starts to get thick and bubbles rise to the surface, about 5 to 6 minutes.
4. Remove saucepan from the heat; transfer curd into a large bowl and place a piece of plastic wrap on top to prevent a skin forming. The curd will thicken more as it cools. Store in the refrigerator. Serve and enjoy!

Lime, grapefruit or any citrus fruit could be substituted for the lemon.

Celeriac Française

This dish gives a mild celery flavour with a little beef flavour. The sprinkle of egg yolk and parsley to finish adds an additional touch. 

Ingredients

• 3-4 celeriac
• 2 cups beef stock
  
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp flour
• 3 eggs, hard boiled
  
• 1 small bunch parsley, minced
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. Cook the eggs until hard boiled. Separate the egg yolks and pass through a coarse sieve.
   
2. Cut off the root fibers of the celeriac and pare off any blemishes. Slice 3/4 inch thick and dice into 3/4 inch cubes.
3. In a saucepan, cover the celeriac in cold water and steep for 30 minutes. Drain the celeriac and pat dry in a towel.
4. In a skillet, add 1 tablespoon of butter to sauté the celeriac over low heat for 5 minutes. Add hot beef stock to barely cover, cover the pan, and cook the celeriac rapidly for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid greatly reduced.
5. Blend 1 tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon flour and drop the mixture, a little at a time, into the sauce, shaking the pan to blend thoroughly.* Simmer until the liquid is thickened, and transfer the celeriac to a heated vegetable dish.
6. Combine the sieved egg yolk and parsley, and sprinkle over the celeriac.

* - For a gluten-free alternative replace the wheat flour with a gluten-free flour, or use 1 tablespoon of tapioca starch in place of the butter and flour mixture.

Beurre Blanc

The is one of the classic French butter sauce. The recipe below from Chef Jean-Pierre is a modified version using dill and lemon juice which is especially good with fish, like a Hollandaise sauce only lighter. This sauce must be made just prior to serving – if you try to reheat it, it will break.

While preparing this sauce, it is very important to keep the temperature of the butter mixture below 120°F (50°C) to prevent it from breaking. (If it does break adding an egg yolk or two may reconstitute it, though it is then a Hollandaise sauce.)

Ingredients

• 2 ozs unsalted butter
• ¼ cup shallots minced
• ½ cup Chardonnay or other dry white wine
• ¼ cup lemon juice
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 6 ounces of room temperature (unsalted) butter cut into ½ ounce pieces
• 2 tbsps dill, chopped

Method

1. In a sauté or reduction pan heat 2 ounces butter and when hot add the shallots and slowly sweat them in the hot butter for about 3 to 4 minutes, but do not brown.
2. Add the white wine and lemon juice and let that reduce for about 10 minutes or until you have only 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid left. Add the lemon zest.
3. Reduce the heat to VERY low (if you pan is too hot let it cool a little before adding the butter). The pan should be cooler than 120°F (50°C).
4. Start adding the butter slowly, make sure each piece is incorporated before adding the next piece.
5. Use a fine mesh strainer to strain the sauce at this point.
6. Add salt and white pepper to taste and the dill.

For the standard Beurre Blanc, replace the lemon juice with white wine vinegar, and remove the dill. As an option add a pinch of cayenne pepper.

Watch the video by Chef Jean-Pierre here.

Mexican-spiced Pork Chops

Infused with robust Mexican spices, these succulent pork chops are topped with a vibrant salsa verde. This salsa is also delicious on fish tacos, scrambled eggs or as a dip for tortilla chips.

SALSA VERDE

• 1 lb medium tomatillos, about 10, husked and rinsed
• 1 small onion, cut into large chunks
• 1 jalapeno
• 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 1 medium lemon, halved crosswise & seeded
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Salt to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Sugar to taste

PORK CHOPS

• 4 bone-in pork chops, cut 1 inch thick
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• Zest and juice of 1 medium lemon
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped onion
• 1 tbsp smoked paprika
• 1 tbsp chili powder
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tsp cumin
• 2 tsp coriander
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp olive oil

1. For the salsa verde, preheat oven to 450°F.
2. Place tomatillos, onion, jalapeno, garlic and lemon on parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and toss to coat, making sure lemon halves are cut-side down. Roast until tomatillos are charred and onions are brown, about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
3. When cool enough to handle, discard garlic skins and pepper stem. Place everything in a food processor and pulse to desired consistency. If it's too thick, add water, 1 tbsp at a time. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in chopped cilantro. Season with salt and sugar, if necessary. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate up to 5 days.
4. For the pork chops, stir together all ingredients other than pork chops and olive oil in a small bowl. Place chops in a container and pour marinade over, flipping to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 1 day
5. Take chops out of fridge and preheat oven to 400°F.
6. Set a large cast-iron or oven-proof skillet over high heat. When hot, add olive oil. Swirl, then add pork chops. Cook until nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip and transfer pan to oven for 5 minutes. Flip and continue cooking in oven until chops reach an internal temperature of 145°F, about 5 minutes more.
7. Transfer chops to cooling rack and rest 5 minutes. Serve with the salsa verde. Serves 4

Spinach Soubrics

Soubrics*

• 2 quarts spinach
• 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 egg, separated
• Pinch of cayenne
• Pinch of nutmeg
• Salt to taste
• Butter for sautéing

White Sauce

• 2 cup milk
• 4 tbsp melted butter
• 4 tbsp flour
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground pepper
• ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Thoroughly wash the spinach then boil in a little water. Drain the spinach thoroughly and press out the water, and chop.
2. Add the Parmesan cheese and the yolk of the egg slightly beaten. Season with salt, cayenne, and a slight grating nutmeg and cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the white of the egg slightly beaten.
3. Make quenelles with a quenelle spoon or a tablespoon and sauté in butter.
4. Serve with a white sauce or cheese sauce.

* - Soubric is a classic French dish similar to croquettes or pancakes. It is made from puréed or minced meats or vegetables which are then thickened with eggs or flour and sometimes cream. The batter is then shaped and divided into smaller portions and sautéed in clarified butter. The shape can be like a small pancake or blinz, or made into quenelles. Soubrics are usually accompanied with a white sauce such as béchamel or allemande sauce. They are usually served as an hors-d’œuvre, amuse-bouche†, or a side for various dishes.

† - though a French term, "amuse-bouche" is not used in France; they use the term "amuse-gueule."

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. Reduce balsamic vinegar to a syrup stage and squeeze a small amount on top.
2. Cook some bacon or prosciutto until crisp. Put into blender to made in very small pieces and sprinkle on top of plated dish.