ClearJel

To stabilize whipping cream or thicken fruit for pies and other desserts, ClearJel is the preferred choice of professional chefs. It is made from modified cornstarch that thickens instantly when it comes in contact with liquid. It will, for example, allow whipped cream to be prepared far in advance (2 days) and retain its shape.

To make whipped cream

Ingredients:

• 2 cups 35% whipping cream
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp ClearJel

Combine sugar and ClearJel and mix together. Pour whipping cream into a mixing bowl with a whip attachment. Whip on medium and gradually add in the sugar/ClearJel mixture. Mix on high speed until the desired level of whipping in reached. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For pie and pastry filling, here are the proportions to use for 1 cup of fruit:

Filling (1 cup)

ClearJel (tsp)

Apples

1/2

Blackberries & Raspberries

2 3/4

Blueberries

2

Cherries (fresh)

2

Cherries (canned or frozen)

2 1/2

Peaches

2 1/2

Strawberry and/or Rhubarb

2 1/2

McCall's Clearjel

Sources:
kingarthurbaking.com/how-to-whip-cream
kingarthurbaking.com/pie-thickener

Gluten-free Alternatives

by Paul Frysh

Rice Flour
It’ll work in pies, cakes, and cookies, but you may need to use a little less of it if the recipe calls for wheat flour. You can get white or brown rice flour. Brown has a slightly nuttier taste and grittier texture. Try some rice flour chocolate cake if you’re trying to cut back on traditional wheat flour.

Tapioca Flour
This flour, made from a dried root called cassava or manioc, is great for thickening soups and stews. And you may be able to use it in equal amounts in recipes that call for wheat flour. It makes a nice, crispy alternative to wheat flour for breading pan-fried fish or chicken.

Potato Flour
Ground from dried potatoes, a single cup has 1,600 milligrams of potassium, around half of what you need in a day. Use it to thicken creamy sauces or frozen desserts. It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in baked goods, but you can mix it with other non-wheat flours. Try adding a small amount to your favorite bread recipe to help keep it moist and fresh.

Buckwheat Flour
Despite its name, buckwheat has no relation to wheat. It’s actually closer to rhubarb, which isn’t a grain. It’s also loaded with B-vitamins, fiber, magnesium, and antioxidants. Try some buttermilk-buckwheat pancakes for your next Sunday morning feast.

Amaranth Flour
Ground amaranth seeds make up this flour that’s rich in fiber and protein. You can replace up to 25% of wheat flour in standard recipes or combine it with other non-wheat flours to make a workable gluten-free version. It has a sweet, peppery flavor that works well in darker baked goods like brownies.

Corn Flour
It isn’t a good replacement for wheat flour in recipes, but you can use it in all kinds of other ways. For example, you can make cornbread, muffins, pancakes, hush puppies, and polenta (a smoother version of grits). Or try combining it with shortening to make your own homemade corn tortillas.

Chickpea Flour
Dried, ground garbanzo beans make up this high-protein flour that Indian cooks call "chana" flour. Use it in savory Indian spiced pancakes, or combine it with other flours to make full-flavored baked goods.

Oat Flour
Look for packages marked “gluten free” to be sure of what you’re getting. Some oats pick up gluten during harvest or processing. The flour is dense, with a nutty flavor that works well in desserts and muffins. It uses the whole oat grain and so adds a good deal of fiber and nutrients. And oats lower cholesterol, among other health benefits. Try oat flour in something that doesn’t need to rise, like the topping on your next fruit crisp.

Coconut Flour
There’s no mistaking this flour. It tastes distinctly of the dried coconut meat that is its only ingredient. You might like it if you follow the paleo diet. It’s low in carbs, high in fiber, and has 6 grams of protein per quarter-cup. It also has 4 grams of saturated fat. In general, it’s best to use a little in any one recipe and combine it with other flours. Try some coconut flour mini-muffins.

Almond Flour
Italian cooks, among others, often use this flour in traditional cookies, cakes, and other pastries. You can make it at home if you blanch and grind almonds. A quarter-cup has 6 grams of protein, 14 grams of mostly unsaturated fat, and 3.5 grams of fiber. You can use it in savory dishes too; to encrust a fillet of flounder, for example.

Source: www.webmd.com.

Bavarian Cream

Julia Child

BAVARIAN CREAM—COLD SOUFFLE

When the ancients wrote of ambrosia, they might well have had French Bavarian cream in mind. It is velvet to the tongue, it melts in the mouth, and caresses the palate in a most sensuous fashion. Lightly held in shape by just the right amount of gelatin, it may stand alone in molded splendor, or may rise up from the dish like a majestic soufflé.

BAVAROIS A L'ORANGE

(Orange Bavarian Cream)

For about 2 quarts, serving 8 to 10 people

THE ORANGE CUSTARD

• 2 large bright skinned oranges
• ⅔ cup strained orange juice
• 1½ tbsp (1½ envelopes) unflavored gelatin
• 2 large sugar lumps
• A saucepan

One at a time, rub the sugar lumps over the oranges until all sides of each lump are impregnated with orange oil. Crush the lumps and place in a saucepan; grate the rind and add to saucepan. Squeeze the juice of the oranges, strain ⅔ cup into a measure, and sprinkle the gelatin on top so that it will soften when ready to be used.

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 7 egg yolks
• 2 tsp cornstarch
• 1½ cups milk heated in the saucepan with the orange-sugar and rind
• An enameled or stainless-steel saucepan and a wooden spoon

Gradually beat granulated sugar into the yolks in a mixing bowl, using a wire whip or electric beater. Continue beating for a minute or more, until mixture is pale and lemon-colored. Beat in the cornstarch. Then, in a thin stream of droplets, beat in the hot milk. Pour mixture into the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon over moderate heat until mixture thickens enough to coat the spoon lightly, around 170°F on a candy thermometer. Do not let custard come to boil or yolks may curdle, but you must let it heat enough to thicken properly. Remove from heat and immediately beat in the orange juice and gelatin.

THE EGG WHITES AND PRELIMINARY CHILLING

• 5 egg whites
• Pinch of salt
• ¼ tsp cream of tartar
• 2 tbsp granulated sugar

Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl for a moment until foamy, then beat in the salt and cream of tartar. Continue beating until soft peaks are formed; add sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Fold the egg whites into the hot custard sauce and chill over cracked ice or in the refrigerator, folding occasionally to keep mixture from separating. When cold but not set, proceed with next step.

WHIPPED CREAM AND FINAL FLAVORING

• ½ cup chilled whipping cream
  
• 2 tbsp orange liqueur
• A chilled mixing bowl
• A chilled beater

Beat the chilled cream until it has doubled in volume and beater leaves light traces on its surface. Fold the cream, then the liqueur, into the cold orange mixture.

TO SERVE AS A MOLDED DESSERT

• An 8-cup cylindrical mold or ring mold, preferably of metal as unmolding is easier
• A chilled serving dish

Rinse mold in cold water. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture, cover with waxed paper, and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. To unmold, dip in hot water for several seconds, quickly run a knife around inside edge of mold, then invert the serving dish over the mold. Quickly reverse the two, and in a few seconds the dessert should fall into place; if not, repeat the process. Decorate top and/or sides of the Bavarian cream with fresh, skinless orange segments flavored with sugar and a spoonful or two of orange liqueur. (Note: Bavarian cream my be frozen, and served as a frozen dessert.)

TO SERVE AS A COLD SOUFFLÉ

• A 5- to 6-cup soufflé dish

Surround soufflé dish with a waxed paper collar which stands 3 inches above the dish. Pour in the Bavarian cream mixture and chill until set. Peel off paper just before serving.

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. To upscale this dessert consider adding some chocolate which goes well with orange. Try chocolate tuiles or shavings or a chocolate weave basket over the dessert. 
2. Also add orange sugar from candied orange rind that has been ground fine, or made by peeling orange rind off, slicing into julienne and drying in an oven at low heat. When thoroughly dried, pulverize in a blender. Sprinkled lightly on top of the finished dessert.
3. I also added mandarin oranges soaked in Cointreau to place on top of the dessert.
4. This dish could be made with other fruits like grapefruit, lemon, mango, etc. For mango add bottled mango juice to use for the juice required.
   

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From The French Chef Cookbook, p.113-5

Lemon Curd

Ingredients

• ½ cup fresh lemon juice
• ½ cup white sugar
• ¼ cup unsalted butter, cubed
• 3 egg yolks
• 2 tsp grated lemon zest

Directions

1. Gather all ingredients in bowls on a countertop surface.
2. Combine lemon juice, sugar, butter, eggs, and lemon zest in a saucepan.
3. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from curdling, until mixture starts to get thick and bubbles rise to the surface, about 5 to 6 minutes.
4. Remove saucepan from the heat; transfer curd into a large bowl and place a piece of plastic wrap on top to prevent a skin forming. The curd will thicken more as it cools. Store in the refrigerator. Serve and enjoy!

Lime, grapefruit or any citrus fruit could be substituted for the lemon.

Celeriac Française

This dish gives a mild celery flavour with a little beef flavour. The sprinkle of egg yolk and parsley to finish adds an additional touch. 

Ingredients

• 3-4 celeriac
• 2 cups beef stock
  
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp flour
• 3 eggs, hard boiled
  
• 1 small bunch parsley, minced
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. Cook the eggs until hard boiled. Separate the egg yolks and pass through a coarse sieve.
   
2. Cut off the root fibers of the celeriac and pare off any blemishes. Slice 3/4 inch thick and dice into 3/4 inch cubes.
3. In a saucepan, cover the celeriac in cold water and steep for 30 minutes. Drain the celeriac and pat dry in a towel.
4. In a skillet, add 1 tablespoon of butter to sauté the celeriac over low heat for 5 minutes. Add hot beef stock to barely cover, cover the pan, and cook the celeriac rapidly for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid greatly reduced.
5. Blend 1 tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon flour and drop the mixture, a little at a time, into the sauce, shaking the pan to blend thoroughly.* Simmer until the liquid is thickened, and transfer the celeriac to a heated vegetable dish.
6. Combine the sieved egg yolk and parsley, and sprinkle over the celeriac.

* - For a gluten-free alternative replace the wheat flour with a gluten-free flour, or use 1 tablespoon of tapioca starch in place of the butter and flour mixture.

Beurre Blanc

The is one of the classic French butter sauce. The recipe below from Chef Jean-Pierre is a modified version using dill and lemon juice which is especially good with fish, like a Hollandaise sauce only lighter. This sauce must be made just prior to serving – if you try to reheat it, it will break.

While preparing this sauce, it is very important to keep the temperature of the butter mixture below 120°F (50°C) to prevent it from breaking. (If it does break adding an egg yolk or two may reconstitute it, though it is then a Hollandaise sauce.)

Ingredients

• 2 ozs unsalted butter
• ¼ cup shallots minced
• ½ cup Chardonnay or other dry white wine
• ¼ cup lemon juice
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 6 ounces of room temperature (unsalted) butter cut into ½ ounce pieces
• 2 tbsps dill, chopped

Method

1. In a sauté or reduction pan heat 2 ounces butter and when hot add the shallots and slowly sweat them in the hot butter for about 3 to 4 minutes, but do not brown.
2. Add the white wine and lemon juice and let that reduce for about 10 minutes or until you have only 1 to 2 tablespoons of liquid left. Add the lemon zest.
3. Reduce the heat to VERY low (if you pan is too hot let it cool a little before adding the butter). The pan should be cooler than 120°F (50°C).
4. Start adding the butter slowly, make sure each piece is incorporated before adding the next piece.
5. Use a fine mesh strainer to strain the sauce at this point.
6. Add salt and white pepper to taste and the dill.

For the standard Beurre Blanc, replace the lemon juice with white wine vinegar, and remove the dill. As an option add a pinch of cayenne pepper.

Watch the video by Chef Jean-Pierre here.

Mexican-spiced Pork Chops

Infused with robust Mexican spices, these succulent pork chops are topped with a vibrant salsa verde. This salsa is also delicious on fish tacos, scrambled eggs or as a dip for tortilla chips.

SALSA VERDE

• 1 lb medium tomatillos, about 10, husked and rinsed
• 1 small onion, cut into large chunks
• 1 jalapeno
• 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 1 medium lemon, halved crosswise & seeded
• 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Salt to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Sugar to taste

PORK CHOPS

• 4 bone-in pork chops, cut 1 inch thick
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• Zest and juice of 1 medium lemon
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped onion
• 1 tbsp smoked paprika
• 1 tbsp chili powder
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tsp cumin
• 2 tsp coriander
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tbsp olive oil

1. For the salsa verde, preheat oven to 450°F.
2. Place tomatillos, onion, jalapeno, garlic and lemon on parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and toss to coat, making sure lemon halves are cut-side down. Roast until tomatillos are charred and onions are brown, about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool.
3. When cool enough to handle, discard garlic skins and pepper stem. Place everything in a food processor and pulse to desired consistency. If it's too thick, add water, 1 tbsp at a time. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in chopped cilantro. Season with salt and sugar, if necessary. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate up to 5 days.
4. For the pork chops, stir together all ingredients other than pork chops and olive oil in a small bowl. Place chops in a container and pour marinade over, flipping to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 1 day
5. Take chops out of fridge and preheat oven to 400°F.
6. Set a large cast-iron or oven-proof skillet over high heat. When hot, add olive oil. Swirl, then add pork chops. Cook until nicely browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Flip and transfer pan to oven for 5 minutes. Flip and continue cooking in oven until chops reach an internal temperature of 145°F, about 5 minutes more.
7. Transfer chops to cooling rack and rest 5 minutes. Serve with the salsa verde. Serves 4

Spinach Soubrics

Soubrics*

• 2 quarts spinach
• 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 egg, separated
• Pinch of cayenne
• Pinch of nutmeg
• Salt to taste
• Butter for sautéing

White Sauce

• 2 cup milk
• 4 tbsp melted butter
• 4 tbsp flour
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp ground pepper
• ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Thoroughly wash the spinach then boil in a little water. Drain the spinach thoroughly and press out the water, and chop.
2. Add the Parmesan cheese and the yolk of the egg slightly beaten. Season with salt, cayenne, and a slight grating nutmeg and cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the white of the egg slightly beaten.
3. Make quenelles with a quenelle spoon or a tablespoon and sauté in butter.
4. Serve with a white sauce or cheese sauce.

* - Soubric is a classic French dish similar to croquettes or pancakes. It is made from puréed or minced meats or vegetables which are then thickened with eggs or flour and sometimes cream. The batter is then shaped and divided into smaller portions and sautéed in clarified butter. The shape can be like a small pancake or blinz, or made into quenelles. Soubrics are usually accompanied with a white sauce such as béchamel or allemande sauce. They are usually served as an hors-d’œuvre, amuse-bouche†, or a side for various dishes.

† - though a French term, "amuse-bouche" is not used in France; they use the term "amuse-gueule."

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Additions to the above recipe:

1. Reduce balsamic vinegar to a syrup stage and squeeze a small amount on top.
2. Cook some bacon or prosciutto until crisp. Put into blender to made in very small pieces and sprinkle on top of plated dish.

Watercress Soup With Poached Egg

by Gordon Ramsay (with additions by me)

This would make a good light dish for brunch. Because it is a fairly substantial dish, it would make a good appetizer for a light meal.

• 1 bag of watercress (retain a few leaves for garnish)
• 1 medium potato, peeled and very thinly sliced
• 1 small clove of garlic mashed into a paste
• 1 tbsp butter
• 1 cup boiling water
• 2 oz prosciutto or bacon
• 2 poached eggs
• Salt & pepper

1. Put the watercress, potato and garlic in a saucepan with the water and butter. Simmer until thoroughly cooked.
2. When cooked, put in a blender and purée. Put through a fine sieve or tamis. Season with salt & pepper to taste. It should be fairly thick.
3. Either fry the bacon until firm but not crisp or use the prosciutto as is at room temperature or cooked till not quite crisp. Cut into julienne.
4. Poach the eggs until done to the soft to medium stage.
5. Pour the watercress soup into a warmed serving bowl and place an egg on top. Place a few shreds of the prosciutto or bacon on top of the egg and garnish with a few watercress leaves.

I tried this recipe and it was pretty good, but it needed something extra for texture and taste. I added the prosciutto/bacon slivers for texture and taste, and the garlic to punch up the flavour of the soup which was a bit bland. I would also try adding a watercress, parsley, or parsley/garlic tuile as a additional garnish instead of (or with) the watercress leaves (or could try a red pepper tuile for a contrasting colour and taste. This tuile could also be made with ajvar.). See my tuile recipes.

Watermelon Sushi

An interesting twist on sushi as a dessert with sweeetened rice. You could also add or substitute mango, papaya or another fruit as the "fish" replacement or as the purée ingredient.

Ingredients

• Sushi rice (see below)
• Watermelon
• Fresh mint leaves
• Lime zest
• Balsamic vinegar or tamarind sauce
• 1 Mango
• 1 tsp sugar

Sushi Rice

• 1½ cups cold water
• 1 cup jasmine rice
• 1 cup milk
• ¼ cup white sugar
• ¼ tsp salt
• 1 egg white
• Dash of vanilla extract

1. Pour water into a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat; stir in rice. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. 
2. Combine cooked rice, 1/2 cup of milk, sugar, and salt in a clean saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until thick and creamy, about 15 minutes. 
3. Stir in remaining 1/2 cup milk and egg white; cook 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla until combined.

Assembly

1. Slice the watermelon into thin rectangles to look like tuna sushi.
2. Peel the mango and cut the flesh away from the central pit. Put the mango in a blender with a little water and the sugar, and purée. Pass through a fine sieve or tamis.
3. Form the sushi rice into fingers. Place a watermelon slice on the rice.
4. Slice the mint leaves into a fine chiffonade and sprinkle a few on top of the watermelon and add a couple of pieces of lime zest.
5. Place a couple of drops of Balsamic vinegar (or tamarind sauce) on one end of the sushi (to look like soy sauce).
6. Place a spoonful of the mango puree on a plate and place the watermelon sushi on the plate.

Other fruits could be used in place of (or in addition to) watermelon as the topping of the rice: mango, papaya, canned peaches or pears, etc.

Ideas for other "sauces" than the mango purée to use as accompaniment: lemon or lime curd, strawberry or raspberry purée.

Remoulade

Like tartar sauce, this French sauce is traditionally used as a condiment with seafood but is not as sweet.

Ingredients

• 1 cup quality mayonnaise
• 2 tbsps finely minced cornichons
• 2 tbsps finely chopped mixed herbs (tarragon is traditional; additionally try parsley, chives & chervil)
• 1 tbsp very finely minced capers
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
• ⅛ tsp anchovy paste, or half of anchovy fillet, very finely minced
• salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Place the mayonnaise in a bowl along with the remaining ingredients. Stir until the ingredients are fully combined.
2. Store covered in the fridge in an airtight container. For the best flavor, let the sauce chill in the fridge for at least 24 hours to allow time for the flavors to fully meld.
3. Sauce will keep up to 2 weeks (or two days if using home-made mayonnaise).

This dish is best prepared with a home made mayonnaise; the recipe can be found here.